I started a new job last Monday, and it’s changed everything. All the comfortable rhythms I’d established during my fall sabbatical were obliterated the second my alarm clock went off that first morning. I’m negotiating a lot of change, and even when changes are positive, they still require some adjustments. The biggest change, of course, is time—where I used to have hours free for kitchen experiments, I suddenly need to squeeze my cooking into little windows of time throughout the week. I’m making it work because I have to, because baking and cooking are how I process the world (Exhibit A, baking bread for bravery. Exhibit B, making cookies while waiting). I might look like I’m separating eggs for a custard, but chances are good that some little corner of my mind is also puzzling over a challenge and how I want to respond to it. For me, busy hands lend themselves to a calm mind and give me a chance to think things through.
Rather than rushing to make this ice cream in a single day, I figured out how to adjust it to my new schedule. I put the ice cream bowl in the freezer and make the custard one evening; churn and layer the ice cream the following day. It’s a different pace than the one I’d developed, but no less a good one. And somewhere along the way, as I whisk the custard or crumble the cookies, I find that I’m thinking less about change, and more appreciating the time in the kitchen that I do have. From a distance, it might almost look like I were unflappable.
Lemon Bar Ice Cream
Source: I Thought There Would Be Free Food
Makes ~2 quarts
Active time: ~1 hour; total time: at least 6 hours, the majority of which is chilling
Note: If making ice cream from scratch is too difficult or time-consuming, you can use store-bought ice cream instead, and significantly cut down on the total time. Let 1–1 1/2 quarts of store-bought vanilla ice cream (my favorite is Breyer’s Natural Vanilla) soften on your counter while you crush the cookies and prepare the lemon curd, then mix in the lemon zest and proceed with layering as directed below.
Ice Cream Base Ingredients:
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 2 cups whole milk
- 6 egg yolks
- 3/4 cup sugar
- 1 pinch of salt
- 1 tablespoon vanilla extract (I use Singing Dog Vanilla’s Double Fold Vanilla Extract, and it is worth every penny)
- Zest of two lemons
Lemon Bar Mix-In Ingredients:
- 7 1/4 ounces shortbread cookies; I used 1 bag of Pepperidge Farm Chessmen
- 10 ounces lemon curd
- Juice of 2 lemons
Directions:
- The day before you plan to make the ice cream, put the bowl in the freezer.
- The next day, pour the cream and milk into a heavy-bottomed pot and bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat. Meanwhile, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and a pinch of salt in a medium bowl.
- When the cream and milk are at a boil, turn off the heat and whisk one-third of the mixture into the egg yolks, whisking vigorously as you do so. Slowly add the rest of the cream and milk to the yolks, whisking all the way.
- Pour the mixture back into your saucepan and heat over medium. Keep stirring, or you could end up with little curds in your custard, and no one wants that.
- There are two ways to test whether your custard is done. Dip a spoon or spatula into it and then run your finger through the custard; your finger should leave a clear trail with no custard running into the track. Alternatively, take your custard’s temperature: it should be between 170–180°F.
- Remove the custard from the heat and pour it into a clean bowl. Let it cool for several minutes before stirring in the vanilla. Cover the custard by pressing a piece of plastic wrap directly onto its surface and refrigerate until cold. The custard will be fine in the refrigerator for a day or two, if you want to spread out the work load.
- Once the ice cream bowl and custard are cold, churn the custard per your machine’s directions. My custard took ~20 minutes to reach peak height and frostiness. Stir in the lemon zest.
- While the custard is churning, crush your shortbread into bite-sized chunks. You’ll want a mix of smaller and larger pieces.
- Spoon the lemon curd into a small bowl. Give it a taste—how sweet is it? You’ll want it to be quite tart so that the flavor will carry through the richness of the ice cream, as well as thin enough to spread. Heat the lemon curd gently in the microwave, at short bursts on low speed, or in a double boiler.
- Once it’s warm, stir in lemon juice to taste. I used the juice of two lemons, but you may want more or less depending on how much tartness you enjoy.
- Spread one-quarter of your ice cream into a large, freezer-proof container (I used a two-quart Tupperware). Top with one-third of the cookie pieces, then one-third of the lemon curd. Repeat as required, ending with a layer of ice cream. Cover the container and return to the freezer to firm up before enjoying.